Orchid Care

Place orchids in a location where there is bright light, but not in direct sunlight. Most orchids like bright filtered light or early morning direct sun. Usually, a southern or eastern exposure will provide the light you are looking for.

Make sure there is good air movement around the plant near an oscillating fan or an open window. Moving air prevents disease, Fungus, and bacteria which tends to germinate on wet surfaces.

Providing humidity around the plant is very important. Placing your orchid in the bathroom can be an ideal place since there's usually a window to let in light and a hot shower once a day provides excellent humidity. Having a fish bowl near your plant or using humidity trays, humidifiers and fountains work just as well. You can also mist the leaves on your plants daily, this will help keep your plants nice and lush.


Unlike most of our familiar houseplants, orchids are adapted to conditions that experience not only seasonal variation in temperatures but also significant day/night variations as well. Most orchids can handle temperatures ranging from 70's-80's during the daytime and a low in the 40's at night.


Orchids like to be in tight pots and let their roots travel and fell up the pot. Use media that drains well like sequoia bark, coconut husk chips or Orchiata bark from New Zealand. We usually recommend re-potting/transplanting every 2 years and upgrading the pot size about 1-2" inches.

Water your orchid when the media in the pot is dry and your pot feels light when lifted. Usually a once to twice a week watering is sufficient (Drench the plant throughly). Water heavily only in the mornings and make sure the plant gets good air movement after.

We are currently using a fertilizer in our water system: Peters Excel (cal-mag) 15-5-15. Our suggestion is to fertiize once every other week. You do not have to use the exact type of fertlizer that we use. Many people are having sucess using a 15-15-15 or 20-20-20 that you can purchase from your local garden stores. Just remember to fertilizer your orchids twice a month and hopefully they will flourish for you.

Bulbophyllums are one of the easiest genera to grow and bloom when provided with the right environment. Most variety of this group require nearly the same conditions. Many have very exotic dramatic and showy blooms. You can find some the wackiest and most bizarre blooms of this orchid family. Most bulbophyllums are easier to grow mounted which presents a more natural appearance or in baskets.

This genus is one of the largest in the orchid family, numbering in excess of 3,000 species. This species have a very wide global distribution, with the heaviest concentrations in Africa and South-east Asia, but can also be found in South America.

Most species tend to bloom intermittently throughout the year, usually with one or two major flushes. Usually bloom on the matured new growth. Fragrance varies greatly from one to the next, some being very pleasant, while others are downright gross and nasty. Flowers last varies from one to six weeks, depending on the species.

Growing conditions:

Light: Most need moderate to bright light conditions or bright shade. If adjusted slowly, full morning sun up to noon is ideal by most bulbophyllums.

Water: Bulbophyllums prefer to be kept moist, except a slight drying in the winter. During growth period, they should be given heavy watering, so they are never dry. Because of the wet conditions loved by this species, fungus can be a problem. A monthly preventive spray of your favorite fungicide is desirable to ward off pests or insects. Good air movement is a must to keep leaf fungus down because of the watering regime.

Temperature: Warm temperatures above sixty to seventy degrees. Enjoys high humidity also. Most will not tolerate frost .

Fertilizer: Very simple, they love to grind, 1/4 strength at each watering is sure to keep them elated.

Media: Bulbophyllums are not deep rooters, so a very shallow pot is most ideal if not mounted. They will enjoy any loose well-drained media.

Repotting: Only some bulbophyllums grow in pots but many bulbo's are often cultivated in hanging baskets and still others prefer to be mounted on cork or tree fern. Since so many bulbophyllums are epiphytic, repotting never really comes into the picture.

Overall, this is a worthwhile species to grow, and you will be so rewarded when you see those magnificent and showy blooms.

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Cattleyas are known as the "The King of the Orchids". They are best known for being the classic corsage orchid. Cattleyas are an excellent choice for beginners. Due to their relative ease of culture and adaptability to many different environments. Cattleyas are among the most popular orchid genus grown. They produce breathtaking fragrant flowers an are available in a wide range of spectacular colors, sizes, shapes, and textures.

Light- Cattleyas grow and flower best with strong, filtered or indirect sunlight. The most common cause for failure to flower is insufficient light. Growths and flower spikes should develop straight and strong without the need for staking. Foliage color should be medium olive green. If the growths are weak and floppy, and the foliage a very dark green, the light is probably insufficient. If the foliage is more on the yellow side and quite hard, the plants may be receiving too much light. While it will flower, the plant is probably being stressed and will not perform to its optimum. In the home, cattleyas prefer either an east or a lightly shaded south-facing window. West windows should be used with caution. Depending upon the location of the home, the west window may become very hot during the late spring through early fall.

Watering- Depending upon your temperature, Cattleyas should be watered about once or twice a week. During the summer, the plants may need to be watered every 3 days. The simple rule of thumb for watering should be as followed : The hotter the days, the more watering is needed, the colder the days are, the less watering is required. Cattleyas may be allowed to dry out between waterings. Try to water the plants early in the day (morning), so that the foliage can dry off during the day. Give the plants ample air circulation to help dry the leaves.

Temperature- Cattleyas adapt to a wide range of temperatures. Provide nighttime temperatures 55 to 60°F and daytime temperatures 70 to 90°F. Plants can tolerate temperatures of up to 100°F, if shading, humidity and air circulation are increased. Most cattleya can tolerate low temperatures into the low 40's for short periods of time.

Humidity- A range from 40 – 60-percent relative humidity is recommended. While relative humidity is naturally inversely proportional to temperature, the reverse is needed by cattleyas. That is, the humidity should rise with the temperature to prevent the plant from being stressed by transpiration. In greenhouses, under-bench misting activated by a humidistat is a practical solution. An alternative is to spray the walks and benches with water. In the home, place plants on a grid over a water-and-gravel filled tray, or mist them daily.

Fertilizer- Any balanced orchid fertilizer (look at the numbers on the container, 20-20-20, etc.) can be used to fertilize your orchid. Feed weakly (¼ strength) weekly works well for catts. Once a month use clear water to flush any accumulated salts from the potting mix. Increase the fertilizer to ½ strength when the plants are in active growth.

Potting- Cattleyas should be grown in Medium Orchid Bark. The bark mix should be moderately coarse to allow for free drainage. Cattleyas should be repotted once every two years. Ideally, Cattleyas should be repotted in the spring.

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Growing heat-tolerant cymbidiums (HTCs) in warm to hot climates is fairly easy and very low maintenance. The ease is comparable to growing dendrobium or cattleya orchid hybrids, which is usually the starting point for beginners. HTCs generally can stand the impact of rainfall, thus they can be grown outside without a greenhouse for protection.

Most cymbidiums enjoy good ventilation and moderate humidity. Though cymbidiums do not enjoy high humidity, they need to remain moist at the root ball. It is important that the growing medium is well-drained yet retains some moisture well.

Lighting:
In most tropical climates, 50-70% shade cloth is suggested for most HTCs. This heavy amount of shade will help prevent leaf burn during the hottest and driest months when the sun shines directly from above. Shade might be reduced whenever clouds and rains are more prevalent throughout the year. Growing indoors requires a well-ventilated area. This indoor location should not be exposed to direct sunlight in the afternoon.

Pots and Medium:
Clay pots are the best for growing cymbidiums in tropical climates as the porosity of the clay encourages evaporative cooling during hot weather. This is the real advantage over plastic pots. In addition, the heavier weight of clay pots helps increase stability for cymbidiums with large top growth. Taller pots also add another advantage as the depth allows better roots development. In addition to the bottom hole, a few additional side holes near the bottom of the pot will prevent water from standing at the bottom, which might cause root rot.
Cymbidiums should be grown in Medium Orchid Bark and should be repotted once every two years. Ideally, Cymbidiums should be repotted in the late spring after the plant has finished blooming. Cymbidiums do best when grown in pots that give them about 2” inches in diameter to grow. *DO NOT use an overly large pot as this will hold more water/moisture, causing the plant to drown and the roots to rot.

Watering and Fertilizing:
Watering cymbidiums can be done every other day or once a week, depending on rainfall, moisture, and the ability to hold water and moisture of the potting mix.
You can use any brand name balanced orchid fertilizer (look at the numbers on the container, 20-20-20 or 15-15-15 etc.) can be used to fertilize your cymbidium orchid. Feed weakly (1/2 strength) weekly works well for cymbidiums. Once a month use clear water to flush any accumulated salts from the potting mix.

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Dendrobiums are an great choice for the beginner growers. Flowers are available in a wide range of colors, sizes and shapes. From the time that the first flower bud opens, the sprays will remain in bloom for the next 6-8 weeks. If the plant is kept in a bright warm spot, the plant may produce multiple sprays of flowers. Please follow the guidelines below for successful cultivation.

Light- The majority of dendrobiums grow and flower well under Cattleya-like light conditions, which is fairly strong light, amounting to 1,500 to 2,500 foot-candles. Sufficient lighting is must for successful growing and blooming. Dendrobiums prefer either an east or a lightly shaded south facing window. Dark green leaves are an indication of insufficient lighting.

Temperature- Dendrobiums can withstand hot weather if adequate ventilation and humidity are provided. They are best grown when the temperature is between 65°F and 75°F in the day and between 55ºF to 60ºF at night.
Keep in mind that temperatures close to the window on a windowsill will be colder or hotter than your general house temperature.

Water- Water your orchids in the morning so that the leaves are dry before night. How often to water depends on the potting media used,
and the size of the pot. Dendrobiums like to be in small pots (tight in the pot) and are usually much taller than the pot is wide. Because they are usually large plants in relatively small pots, watering twice a week is about average. They like to be almost dry before re-watering. The rule of thumb for watering should be as followed: More heat more water, less heat less water.

Humidity- Dendrobiums prefer 40% to 50% humidity. Humidity Trays may be needed, especially if a heater or air conditioner is in use in the house. You can also mist the foliage daily to keep your plant(s) lush.

Fertilizer- Any balanced orchid fertilizer (look at the numbers on the container, 20-20-20 or 15-15-15 etc.) can be used to fertilize your orchid. Feed weakly (1/2 strength) weekly works well for dendrobiums. Once a month use clear water to flush any accumulated salts from the potting mix.

Potting- Dendrobiums should be grown in Medium Orchid Bark Mix and should be repotted once every two years. Ideally, Dendrobiums should be repotted in the spring. Dendrobiums do best when grown in pots that are small for the size of the plant.

Tips- Give your plants room for air to circulate around them. Crowding of plants can lead to problems with insect infestations and fungus. A small fan will help provide good air circulation around your plants.

When your plant has finished blooming, you can cut the flowering stem at the point where it came out of the tall thin pseudobulbs. Continue watering and fertilizing and within a year a new growth will spike to begin the blooming cycle again.

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The epidendrum is one of earliest established genera of orchids with over 1,000 different species. Many Epidendrums can be found growing at sea level, and some of its species can be found at higher elevations up in the mountains. Most Epidendrums have reed-like stems that resemble the Dendrobium orchid’s growth habits. These inflorescences are usually long and produce brightly colored clusters of flowers in shades of white, orange, red, yellow, lavender, or fuchsia. Here in Hawaii we only grow and sell the warm growing tyoe of epidendrum.

Water- Epidendrums like lots of water in the growing season as they are very fast growers and need sufficient hydration to build new growths. Water every 2-3 days throughout the spring and summer growing season. Less water is required in the fall and winter months. Water every 5-7 days at that point, allowing the plant to almost dry out between waterings.
You can help encourage bud growth by withholding water for about a month, however, make sure that your orchid remains happy.

Light- This is a very important requirment for growing and blooming epidendrums well. They require high light throughout the year. It should be equal to or slightly more than that given to cattleyas. Some epidendrums actually will acclimate to full sun. If your orchid is receiving the ideal amount of sunlight the foliage will be grassy green with a slight tinge of red in color. If your plant is receiving too much light the leaves can start to turn a brownish-bronze or dark reddish color. If you do not give enough light it will cause the orchid to become very tall and will keep the plant from producing flowers.

Temperature- Epidendrums can adapt to a wide range of temperatures. Nighttime temperatures can range between 55 to 70°F and daytime temperatures 80 to 90°F. Plants can tolerate temperatures of up to 100°F, if shading, humidity, water and air circulation are increased. Most epidendrums can tolerate low temperatures into the low 40's for short periods of time.

Humidity- The ideal humidity range to grow your Epidendrums is somewhere above 50%-60% humidity. Remember to have adequate air movement for your orchids by opening a window and letting in the breeze or by placing an oscillating fan nearby. This will help mimic the breeze that the orchid would receive in nature.

Potting- Epidendrum like to potted with a medium that allows for good drainage. A recommendation is to mix both a fine and medium-grade bark with perlite works really well. Epidendrums can also grow very well attached to a mount, in raised planter beds (never pot with dirt), or outside in x-large cement or clay pots if you live in an area that doesn’t experience frost. Once the plants begin to grow taller you should stake them for support. We recommend repotting every 2 years.

The generic name Grammatophyllum is derived from the Greek words gramma, meaning "a mark or character," and phyllum, "a leaf." This probably refers to the varied markings on the petals and sepals of the flowers, which resulted in Grammatophyllum frequently being called the "Letter Plants." Grammatophyllums produce short thick psuedobulbs which are not covered leaf bases and bear a few leaves around the top of the psuedobulbs. The flowers of most Grammatophyllum species, are generally yellow, brown, green and spotted, and are found throughout the islands of the Malaysia, Philippines and New Guinea areas.

Light- Grammatophyllums grow well in moderate to high light intensity (30-35% shade). These plants usually acclimate very well to full sun and are often used in landscaping (Often seen mounted on trees). Lime green colored foliage is an indication of proper light. Dark green foliage, while very attractive, is not conducive to the plant reaching it's full blooming potential. Yellow colored foliage indicates too much light. In very mild climates, most members of this can be grown out of doors, with protection from the colder nights of winter.

Watering- We suggest to watering every 3 days or twice a week during the hot summer months. They should not be allowed to go completely dry, yet they don't care for a soggy environment either. We suggest watering once a week in the winter and early spring months, when weather is colder.

Humidity- Grammatophyllums like it warm and very humid. The humidity level should be at least 50% or higher. Increase the amount of humidity in the summer months (Mist the leaves daily). Make sure the plants have good air circulation. This will help prevent fungus, insect problems, and mold from forming on the leaves.

TEMPERATURE- The ideal temperature range for most grammatophyllums are 75°-85°F. during the day and 55°-6O°F. at night. Plants will tolerate temperatures to 45°F (if not wet) and up to 100°F for short periods. At higher temperatures, air circulation and humidity must be increased.

FERTILIZER- Grammatophyllum plants should be fed consistently. we suggest using a Balance type fertilizer 20-20-20 or 15-15-15. From Spring through early Fall, fertilizing every seven days, with several clear waterings in between. In the late Fall through Winter, a light feeding once every other week.

Repot- We suggest repotting your Grammatophyllums every 2 years. Usually you can go up 2" inches in pot size from your last pot. This type of plants grow really fast and usually double in size every year. Use large decorative bark chunks to wedge the plant in the pot, the roots should fell the pot and become very root bound.

This is a large and diverse orchid genus with an equally diverse number of growing habitats. Oncidiums may be found growing anywhere from sea level in the tropics to the high elevations of the Andes. This obviously makes cultural generalizations a little more difficult. The Oncidium alliance is very popular among orchid growers due to its cultural flexibility and striking sprays of long lasting flowers. The plants may be grown with relative ease in the home or under a sheltered patio.

Light- The majority of oncidiums thrive in the same light conditions as cattleyas, roughly 1,500 to 2,000 foot-candles. Some, such as the terete-leaved species and the mule-ear group, can tolerate even higher illumination with positive results, while the cool-growing species are best grown with somewhat less light in order to keep the plants cooler.

Water- requirements vary with the type of plant. Plants with large fleshy roots or leaves need less-frequent watering than thin-leaved or thin-rooted plants. Watering should be thorough, and the medium should dry at least halfway through the pot before watering again. This may be every two to 10 days depending on weather, pot size, type of oncidum and, potting medium. Plants not actively growing should be watered less.

Temperature- Oncidiums grow in many different habitats. They are found from hot, humid tropical lowlands to the cool and misty mountains. Some are found in places with almost desert-like climates for much of the year. (Please remember we are a nusrery in hawaii and do not grow the cool/cold growing oncidiums) Most Oncidiums and their hybrids are intermediate in temperature preference. For the best results provide nighttime temperatures of 50 to 65°F and daytime temperatures under 85°F.

Humidity- Oncidiums prefer 50-65% humidity. Humidity should be increased with higher temperatures during the summer months. Humidity Trays may be needed for plants grown in
the house. Also daily misting will help to keep your plant nice and lush.

Air Movement- As for all orchids, air movement is key to growing nice healthy plants. The air should be moist to prevent desiccation, and the flow should be gentle. Good air circulation tends to result in rapid drying of potting media, something that is essential for healthy roots.

Fertilize- regularly while plants are actively growing. Applications of 30-10-10 formulations twice a month are ideal for plants in a bark-based potting medium. A 20-20-20 formulation should be used on plants in other media or on slabs.

Potting- Oncidiums should be grown in either medium Bark or sphagnum moss. They should be repotted once every two years. Ideally the plants should be repotted immediately after flowering or when the new growth has started to form.

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Vanda (VAN-da)- Vandas are captivating orchids that may be grown with relative ease. Vandas are vascular plants with monopodial growth habits, that grow upward from a single point. Growth arises from the crown of the plant. Flowers are available in attractive rich colors, including blue, red, orange and yellow. The flower spikes, which usually carry 8 to 10 blooms, arise from the base of the leaves and last for several weeks.

Light- Vandaceous orchids require strong light. Provide full morning sun when possible. Semi-terete and terete types can be grown in full sun all day in tropical areas where the humidity is high. Strap-leaved plants need additional protection during the hottest part of the day. The plants need to adapt/acclimate slowly to any increase in lighting.

Watering- should be applied frequently when the plants are in the growing phase, but the roots must dry quickly. Because of this, and their extensive root system, they are mostly grown in slatted-wood or plastic baskets, or in pots with a coarse potting medium. If their situation is warm and sunny (Summer months), they may need daily watering. Water less in the winter months when there is less sun and heat.

Temperature- Most vanda like it on the warm side, and do not like to go below 55°. Colder spells can be tolerated for a short time if it is not windy and wet. Optimum night temperatures are 60° to 70° F , and a maximum of 95° F during the day if very humid. Warmer temperatures mean faster growth, which must be balanced with higher humidity, air movement, and increased water and fertilizer. Days should be warm and humid for optimum plant growth.

Humidity- Vandas prefer high 60 to 80% humidity. A high humidity is essential during the growing season, from early spring through late fall. During the summer, watering should be supplemented with daily misting of the leaves. Humidity Trays may be needed if your Vandas are growing indoors.

Fertilizing- Vandaceous orchids require generous amounts of nutrients. Give plants in the greenhouse a solution of a fertilizer, such as 20-20-20 or 15-15-15, weekly during the growing season. Outdoor plants require a heavier concentration of the same fertilizer. During winter, when growth is slower, apply the same proportions every two weeks rather than weekly. In addition, substitute a fertilizer high in phosphorus (10-30-20) at every third feeding To remove built-up salts, flush plants with plain water once a month.

Potting- Vandas can be grown in either a pot with large/coarse bark or in Baskets suspended by a wire. Plants grown in baskets do not need to be repotted often as those in pots. Vandas grown in pots should be repotted once every two years. Repotting should be done in the spring.

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